Growing potatoes in Texas may be rewarding for gardeners for several reasons, including the versatility of the crop and the possibility of large harvests if cared for correctly. The diverse climates of Texas offer unique advantages and disadvantages for growing potatoes, ranging from the dry deserts in the west to the verdant forests in the east.
To achieve success, one must be knowledgeable about the soil types, weather patterns, and planting schedules specific to their area. As an example, the sandy soils in South Texas necessitate a different watering strategy than the deep clay soils in North Texas. Similarly, although warmer locations necessitate planting in the spring, the Panhandle’s cooler weather allows for a fall crop.
This guide provides a systematic way to grow potatoes that works in the varied Texas environment. Whether you’re just starting out in gardening or are an experienced raised bed manager, you’ll discover useful, region-specific advice for ensuring robust tubers and robust plants.
Because we discuss every step in detail, from choosing the variety to harvesting, you can successfully grow potatoes in the diverse conditions of Texas. Begin with certified seed potatoes, meticulously prepare your soil, and follow this advice to enjoy homegrown potatoes that are suited to your area’s special requirements.
Growing Potatoes in Texas: Complete Regional Guide for North, Central, South & More
Selecting the Right Potato Varieties for Texas
Choose the right potato varieties, and you’ll have a successful crop every year. Since Texas has warm springs and moderate winters, the ideal potato varieties for the state’s environment are Russet, Yukon Gold, and Red Pontiac.
Red Pontiacs do best in richer soils, Yukon Golds shine when mashed, and Russets are baked to perfection. Potato varieties native to the South, such as Kennebec, are also excellent since they can endure the extreme heat and drought that characterize summers in Texas.
Buying certified disease-free seed potatoes from reputable sellers will help reduce the risk of potato blight. In hotter areas, such as South Texas (USDA zones 6b to 9a), early-maturing cultivars can help plants survive the summer heat without suffering from heat stress.
Store seed potatoes in a dark, cool place (around 40°F) to maintain their viability. Because different kinds affect production, disease resistance, and culinary application, it’s important to choose ones that are suitable for your garden’s environment and your cooking preferences. Your local extension office may have suggestions that might help you refine your choices even further for optimal results.
| Variety | Best Uses | Soil Preference | Heat/Drought Tolerance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Russet | Baking | Various | Moderate |
| Yukon Gold | Mashing | Various | Moderate |
| Red Pontiac | General cooking | Richer soils | Moderate |
| Kennebec | General cooking | Various | High |
Texas-Specific Guidance for Potato Varieties:
North Texas: Sow Yukon Gold or Russet in February. These varieties flourish in the clay soils common to the Dallas and Fort Worth areas and mature before the scorching summer heat, which can reach 90°F and beyond by June. Seek approved seeds from your neighborhood nurseries to ward off diseases like blight, which can spread during the spring rains.
Central Texas: Plant Red LaSoda or Kennebec in late January. These heat-tolerant varieties suit the clay and limestone soils around Austin and San Antonio, maturing before the intense summer heat (90°F by May). Use certified seeds to avoid blight, as spring rains (2–3 inches monthly) increase disease risk.
Red LaSoda and other heat-tolerant potato varieties are excellent choices for planting in January in southern Texas. Warm winters (rarely below 40°F) allow for early crop planting in Brownsville and similar locations.
A Comprehensive Guide to Growing Potatoes in Texas
Growing potatoes in Texas may be rewarding for gardeners for several reasons, including the versatility of the crop and the possibility of large harvests if cared for correctly. The diverse climates of Texas offer unique advantages and disadvantages for growing potatoes, ranging from the dry deserts in the west to the verdant forests in the east.
To achieve success, one must be knowledgeable about the soil types, weather patterns, and planting schedules specific to their area. As an example, the sandy soils in South Texas necessitate a different watering strategy than the deep clay soils in North Texas. Similarly, although warmer locations necessitate planting in the spring, the Panhandle’s cooler weather allows for a fall crop.
This guide provides a systematic way to grow potatoes that works in the varied Texas environment. Whether you’re just starting out in gardening or are an experienced raised bed manager, you’ll discover useful, region-specific advice for ensuring robust tubers and robust plants.
Because we discuss every step in detail, from choosing the variety to harvesting, you can successfully grow potatoes in the diverse conditions of Texas. Begin with certified seed potatoes, meticulously prepare your soil, and follow this advice to enjoy homegrown potatoes that are suited to your area’s special requirements.
Selecting the Right Potato Varieties for Texas
Choose the right potato varieties, and you’ll have a successful crop every year. Since Texas has warm springs and moderate winters, the ideal potato varieties for the state’s environment are Russet, Yukon Gold, and Red Pontiac.
Red Pontiacs do best in richer soils, Yukon Golds shine when mashed, and Russets are baked to perfection. Potato varieties native to the South, such as Kennebec, are also excellent since they can endure the extreme heat and drought that characterize summers in Texas.
Buying certified disease-free seed potatoes from reputable sellers will help reduce the risk of potato blight. In hotter areas, such as South Texas (USDA zones 6b to 9a), early-maturing cultivars can help plants survive the summer heat without suffering from heat stress.
Store seed potatoes in a dark, cool place (around 40°F) to maintain their viability. Because different kinds affect production, disease resistance, and culinary application, it’s important to choose ones that are suitable for your garden’s environment and your cooking preferences. Your local extension office may have suggestions that might help you refine your choices even further for optimal results.
| Variety | Best Use | Soil Preference | Heat/Drought Tolerance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Russet | Baking | Various | Moderate |
| Yukon Gold | Mashing | Various | Moderate |
| Red Pontiac | General cooking | Richer soils | Moderate |
| Kennebec | General cooking | Various | High |
Texas-Specific Guidance for Potato Varieties:
North Texas: Sow Yukon Gold or Russet in February. These varieties flourish in the clay soils common to the Dallas and Fort Worth areas and mature before the scorching summer heat, which can reach 90°F and beyond by June. Seek approved seeds from your neighborhood nurseries to ward off diseases like blight, which can spread during the spring rains.
Central Texas: Plant Red LaSoda or Kennebec in late January. These heat-tolerant varieties suit the clay and limestone soils around Austin and San Antonio, maturing before the intense summer heat (90°F by May). Use certified seeds to avoid blight, as spring rains (2–3 Einstein monthly) increase disease risk.
Red LaSoda and other heat-tolerant potato varieties are excellent choices for planting in January in southern Texas. Warm winters (rarely below 40°F) allow for early crop planting in Brownsville and similar locations, although early-maturing cultivars are necessary due to the arrival of summer heat around April.
Red Pontiac thrives in the thick, clay-rich soils of east Texas, specifically in the Houston area. Select blight-resistant cultivars and store seeds in a cool, dry spot to prevent rot due to the elevated disease risk caused by the area’s high humidity (usually 80%+).
West Texas: Dwarf Kennebec is ideal for dry areas like Lubbock, where precipitation is scarce (less than 20 inches annually). For sandy, fast-draining soils, these varieties’ reduced water demand is a major plus.
Zone 6b is the coldest and is ideal for russets in the Panhandle. To avoid late frosts—which can reach temperatures as low as 20°F in Amarillo—and to ensure that your seeds do not scab in acidic soils, sow them in March.
| Regions | Recommended Varieties | Planting Month | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Yukon Gold, Russet | February | Clay soils, spring rains, blight risk |
| Central Texas | Red LaSoda, Kennebec | Late January | Clay/limestone soils, spring rains, heat |
| South Texas | Red LaSoda | January | Warm winters, early heat, early-maturing |
| East Texas | Red Pontiac | January | High humidity, clay soils, blight risk |
| West Texas | Dwarf Kennebec | March | Dry, sandy soils, low precipitation |
| Panhandle | Russet | March | Cold, late frosts, acidic soils |
Preparing Seed Potatoes for Planting
If you want strong sprouts and plants from your seed potatoes, you need to prepare them properly. Follow these steps to prepare seed potatoes:
- Step 1: Cut large potatoes into 1.5-inch pieces with one or two eyes, which are the sprout points.
- Step 2: Cure the pieces for a day or two in a warm, dry place (70 to 80°F) to reduce the likelihood of rot and form a protective callus.
- Step 3: Use a clean, sharp knife to cut seed potatoes to avoid the growth of bacteria.
In humid climates, sulfur powder applied to cuts can help prevent fungal infections. Pre-sprouting, often known as chitting potatoes, accelerates germination and results in a larger yield.
Keep the potatoes in a cool, light spot (between 60 and 70°F) for about two to three weeks, or until the sprouts reach ½ inch in length. This step is essential if you want your plants to be ready for Texas’s unpredictable spring weather.
To get the best results, arrange your prep work around when you typically plant potatoes in your location, and be careful not to scratch your eyes when handling seed potatoes.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Preparing Seed Potatoes:
In North Texas, sliced potatoes should be cured in a warm, dry garage for two days to prevent rotting on clay soils that hold moisture after spring rains (about 2-3 inches in February). Chit the sprouts indoors to protect them from late frosts (down to 25°F).
Central Texas: Cure sliced potatoes in a dry, shaded area for two days to prevent rot in clay or limestone soils around Austin, which retain moisture after spring rains (2–3 inches in January). Chit indoors to avoid late frosts (down to 30°F) and apply sulfur powder to cuts to combat fungal risks.
To avoid overheating, chit the potatoes indoors in a shaded area in South Texas, as temperatures in Corpus Christi can reach 70°F in January. Apply sulfur powder generously to cuts in coastal areas to combat fungus caused by dampness.
Curing for an additional three days in humid conditions (Tyler had 90% humidity) can ensure a thick callus in East Texas. Places with piney trees tend to have more mold; therefore, it’s best to keep chitting potatoes in a well-ventilated room.
Cure potatoes in a dry, windy place in West Texas to counteract the low humidity (20-30% in El Paso). Keep sprouts from drying out in dry air by chitting them in a cool place and storing them in burlap bags that allow air to enter.
Panhandle: Protect seedlings from 30 mph March winds by chitting them indoors for three weeks; then, cure them in dry Amarillo air for one day. Verify their viability before putting them in cold storage, as this could damage their eyes.
| Regions | Curing Locations | Curing Duration | Chitting Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Warm, dry garage | 2 days | Indoors, protect from late frosts |
| Central Texas | Dry, shaded area | 2 days | Indoors, sulfur powder, late frost risk |
| South Texas | Shaded indoors | 2 days | Indoors, sulfur powder for fungus |
| East Texas | Well-ventilated room | 3 days | Avoid mold, high humidity |
| West Texas | Dry, windy place | 2 days | Cool, burlap bags to retain moisture |
| Panhandle | Dry air | 1 day | Indoors, protect from winds |
Testing and Amending Texas Soil
To grow potatoes that are good for you, you must prepare the soil. Potatoes grown in Texas must undergo thorough soil testing due to the wide variety of soil types found in the Lone Star State. Get in touch with your county extension office or use a home kit to check the pH, which should be in the ideal range of 5.5 to 6.5.
To make the soil more draining and fertile for potato plants, compost is added. The ideal soil for potato production is loose, well-draining, and rich in potassium, which promotes tuber growth. To make clay soils less compact, mix in some sand or gypsum.
To prevent excessive foliage, apply a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer before planting; stay away from heavy nitrogen fertilizers. Frequent testing ensures nutritional balance, which fosters strong plant development, especially in nutrient-poor regions. Texas’s alkaline soils often require sulfur to lower pH, ensuring the pH of potato soil remains constant.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Soil Testing and Amending:
North Texas: Fort Worth’s clay soils often have a pH of 7.5 or higher. To prevent waterlogging caused by three inches of rain each month in the spring, improve drainage by adding two inches of compost and one pound of sulfur per hundred square feet. Sulfur also lowers pH.
Central Texas: Austin’s clay and limestone soils often have a pH of 7.0–8.0. Add two inches of compost and one pound of sulfur per hundred square feet to improve drainage and lower pH, countering 2–3 inches of spring rain that can compact soils.
Irrigation is a common source of salt in the soils of coastal McAllen in south Texas. When planting potatoes in sandy soils, be sure to water thoroughly and add three inches of compost before planting, as nutrients will be lost quickly in the 80°F spring heat.
East Texas: Loosen clay with pine bark mulch to increase airflow and decrease rot in humid, wet environments. One pound of lime per hundred square feet may be necessary to raise the pH of acidic soils in Lufkin, which have a pH of 5.0.
The sandy, alkaline soils (pH 8.0) in Midland, West Texas, require sulfur and organic matter for potatoes (two to three inches of compost) to retain moisture, because the region receives just fifteen inches of rainfall per year. The recommended frequency of testing is twice yearly.
Panhandle: Amarillo’s loamy soils necessitate two inches of potassium-rich compost for tuber cultivation. Because potato scab is more difficult to control in soils that are too acidic, it is important to check the pH (about 7.0) and provide sulfur if needed.
| Regions | Soil Types | pH Adjustment | Amendments |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Clay | Sulfur (1 lb/100 sq ft) | 2 inches compost, improve drainage |
| Central Texas | Clay/limestone | Sulfur (1 lb/100 sq ft) | 2 inches compost, improve drainage |
| South Texas | Sandy | None (monitor salts) | 3 inches compost, thorough watering |
| East Texas | Clay | Lime (1 lb/100 sq ft, if acidic) | Pine bark mulch, improve airflow |
| West Texas | Sandy, alkaline | Sulfur | 2–3 inches compost, retain moisture |
| Panhandle | Loamy | Sulfur (if acidic) | 2 inches potato-rich compost |
Choosing the Best Planting Time in Texas
Timely potato planting is critical in Texas’s varied landscape. When to plant potatoes in Texas depends on the soil temperature, which ranges from 45 to 55°F. In North Texas, it’s typically February, but in South Texas, it’s January.
Tubers will develop in Texas potato plants before the summer heat (85°F+) limits their growth. Planting potatoes early in the growing season maximizes yields by avoiding heat stress. Use a soil thermometer to sow seeds two or three weeks before the last frost.
For cooler climates, like the Panhandle of Texas, the second crop of potatoes is often planted in late July and harvested in the fall. Be sure to monitor the weather prediction to avoid unexpected frosts or early heat waves that could hinder the germination process.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Planting Time:
North Texas: You should start planting in mid-February when the soil temperature reaches 45°F in Dallas. Clay soils take more time to heat up, so if you want to speed things up, add black plastic mulch. Because three to four inches of rain delays germination, March is not the best month to plant.
Central Texas: Plant in late January to early February in Austin when soil temperatures reach 45°F. Use black plastic mulch to warm clay or limestone soils, and avoid planting in March to prevent delays from 2–3 inches of spring rain.
In early January, you’d be well-suited to begin your journey in Harlingen, South Texas, where winter lows never drop below 40°F. Heat stress can strike young plants quickly in sandy soils (80°F by March), so be careful.
Plant in Nacogdoches at the end of January to escape the heavy spring rains (4 inches per month) in East Texas. Because moisture inhibits soil warming, it is essential to monitor temperatures daily to avoid rot in damp clay.
West Texas: Direct seeding into Odessa in early March is required when soil temperatures are over 50°F. Pre-watering the soil is essential to guarantee germination in dry, sandy conditions with minimal rainfall (less than 1 inch per month).
Plant in Amarillo around the middle of March to avoid frosts (down to 20°F) in the Panhandle. Sow a second crop in August for fall harvest, as cooler nights (50°F) encourage tuber growth.
| Regions | Planting Time | Soil Temperatures | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Mid-February | 45°F | Clay soils, spring rains, use mulch |
| Central Texas | Late January–February | 45°F | Clay/limestone soils, spring rains, mulch |
| South Texas | Early January | 45°F | Sandy soils, early heat, monitor heat |
| East Texas | Late January | 45°F | Heavy rains, monitor soil temperature |
| West Texas | Early March | 50°F | Dry, sandy soils, pre-watering needed |
| Panhandle | Mid-March, August | 45°F | Late frosts, fall crop possible |
Preparing the Planting Site
To guarantee healthy potato growth, make sure the location is well-prepared. The first stage in getting a potato garden ready is to choose a sunny spot that gets six to eight hours of light per day. Because tubers can only develop in loose soil, clear the area of any rocks and weeds.
Raised beds for potatoes, built 8 to 12 inches high with manure and compost, are ideal for areas with poor drainage. In Texas, potatoes should be planted with a depth of four to six inches, and rows should be three feet apart to allow for hilling.
To improve the soil’s structure, incorporate organic elements when growing potatoes. Planting potatoes after eggplants or tomatoes can lead to soil-borne potato diseases. Deep tilling the soil to aerate it promotes root and tuber development.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Preparing the Planting Site:
North Texas: If you live in Fort Worth and have clay soil, you should build raised beds to fix the drainage issues. While the three inches of spring rain compact the dirt and keep the roots dormant until they reach a depth of twelve inches, you should mix in two inches of compost.
Central Texas: Build raised beds in San Antonio to improve drainage in clay or limestone soils. Build raised beds up to 10-12 inches deep and incorporate two inches of compost to counteract the 2-3 inches of spring rain that can compact the soil.
To avoid floods caused by the two inches of spring rainfall, Brownsville, a city in South Texas, could raise its beds. After removing any salty debris, sprinkle one inch of manure into sandy soil to retain moisture in 80°F heat.
East Texas: Till the clay soils in Tyler ten inches deep and add one inch of sand every month to improve drainage in damp, wet conditions. Avoid areas that are situated low on the land, as these locations are more likely to experience flooding.
Drip irrigation of potatoes grown in raised beds near Lubbock, West Texas, can help conserve the area’s fifteen inches of rainfall per year. Spread two inches of compost over sandy soil to keep nutrients in.
Panhandle: Set up burlap screens around Amarillo gardens to shield plants from the 25 mph March winds. Loosen the loamy soil and incorporate one inch of gypsum for enhanced root development.
| Region | Preparation Method | Amendments | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Raised beds, till 12 inches | 2 inches compost | Clay soils, spring rain compaction |
| Central Texas | Raised beds, till 10–12 in | 2 inches compost | Clay/limestone soils, spring rain |
| South Texas | Raised beds | 1 inch manure | Sandy soils, flooding, retain moisture |
| East Texas | Till 10 inches, add sand | 1 inch sand | Clay soils, flooding risk |
| West Texas | Raised beds, drip irrigation | 2 inches compost | Sandy soils, low rainfall |
| Panhandle | Burlap screens, till | 1 inch gypsum | Loamy soils, wind protection |
Planting Seed Potatoes Correctly
Adhering to proper planting protocols promotes robust development. When planting potatoes in Texas, make sure to space the seed potatoes 12 inches apart and arrange them in rows with the cut side down. To accommodate hilling, add four inches of dirt.
All tubers need is a three-foot gap between rows of potatoes. Planting potatoes in 6-inch-deep trenches helps conserve moisture in dry locations. To help the soil settle after planting, water it thoroughly.
One of the greatest ways to plant potatoes is to line the rows north to south so that they receive equal sunlight. Keep the soil moist, but not soaked, while seeds germinate. This strategy will promote sprouting. Make sure it’s moist two inches below the surface by using a finger test.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Planting Seed Potatoes:
North Texas: Plant three inches of clay in February and five inches in Dallas to protect plants from heavy rains. To accommodate hilling and avoid water pooling, plant rows three and a half feet apart on heavy soil.
Central Texas: Plant 4–5 inches deep in Austin’s clay or limestone soils in late January to protect from 2–3 inches of spring rain. Space rows 3 feet apart for hilling and use drip irrigation to maintain moisture.
South Texas: To retain moisture in the 75°F January temperatures, dig four inches deep into the sandy soils of McAllen. Drip irrigation and 2.5-foot row spacing can help dry springs save water.
East Texas: Plant seedlings 6 inches deep near Houston to prevent flooding induced by 4 inches of rain. You can add straw mulch to stabilize wet clay, and you can arrange your rows so that water runs off the plants instead.
In West Texas, build 6-inch ditches in El Paso—one inch of rain every month—to conserve moisture in dry soils. To help the sandy soil settle around the seeds, water thoroughly (2 inches) after planting.
Panhandle: Plant Amarillo potatoes 5 inches thick and use hay bales as windbreaks to protect your crop from 30 mph gusts in March. For hilling in loamy soil, leave a three-foot gap between rows.
| Regions | Planting Depth | Row Spacing | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | 3–5 inches | 3.5 feet | Clay soils, heavy rains, hilling |
| Central Texas | 4–5 inches | 3 feet | Clay/limestone soils, spring rain, drip |
| South Texas | 4 inches | 2.5 feet | Sandy soils, dry springs, drip irrigation |
| East Texas | 6 inches | 3 feet | Clay soils, flooding, straw mulch |
| West Texas | 6 inches | 3 feet | Dry soils, low rainfall, deep watering |
| Panhandle | 5 inches | 3 feet | Loamy soils, windbreaks, hilling |
Watering Potatoes During Germination
Watering helps sprouts grow during the germination process. The ideal amount of water for potatoes is one to two inches per week, which will keep the soil moist without being soggy. Potatoes grown in clay soil need less watering than those grown in sandy soil, for example.
Because it irrigates just the roots and reduces water loss through evaporation, drip irrigation is ideal for growing potatoes. If you look two inches below the surface and don’t see any water, then you need to add some. Minimizing overhead watering is an important part of germination care for potatoes to prevent early blight.
In hot springs like those in Texas, straw mulching is a great way to keep the soil cool and retain moisture. To reduce fungal disease risk, soak the leaves in the morning and water them in the afternoon.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Watering During Germination:
North Texas: If you live in Fort Worth, you should water your plants every five days because the clay soils there hold three inches of rain per month. To avoid waterlogging, utilize drip irrigation, as damp roots rot in 60°F springs.
Central Texas: Water every 4–5 days in Austin to maintain 1 inch of moisture in clay or limestone soils, accounting for 2–3 inches of spring rain. Use drip irrigation to prevent root rot in 65°F springs.
Because Harlingen’s sandy soils dry out so rapidly in the 75°F January heat, South Texas residents should water their plants every three days. Put an inch of mulch down each time you water to keep it from evaporating and getting to the roots.
In Tyler, East Texas, you should water less frequently than once every six days because of the high humidity (80%) and four inches of rain. Straw mulch will prevent the rotting of potato roots in wet clay soils.
It rains an inch in a month, and it rains three times a week in Midland, West Texas. Apply 1.5 inches of drip irrigation weekly to sandy soils to hydrate the roots deeply when producing potatoes.
Water Amarillo’s loamy soils four times a week with two inches of precipitation in March in the Panhandle. Morning watering inhibits fungal growth during 50°F nights, and mulch retains moisture.
| Regions | Watering Frequency | Water Amount | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Every 5 days | 1 inch | Clay soils, spring rain, drip irrigation |
| Central Texas | Every 4–5 days | 1 inch | Clay/limestone soils, drip, spring rain |
| South Texas | Every 3 days | 1 inch | Sandy soils, mulch, evaporation |
| East Texas | Every 6 days | 1 inch | High humidity, mulch, wet clay |
| West Texas | Weekly | 1.5 inches | Sandy soils, low rainfall, drip irrigation |
| Panhandle | Every 4 days | 1 inch | Loamy soils, mulch, morning watering |
Hilling Potatoes for Better Yields
In addition to shielding tubers from harm, hilling increases yield. Why are hill potatoes called that? This method encourages the growth of additional tubers and prevents greening, which occurs when sunlight makes the potatoes toxic.
When growing hill potatoes in Texas, it’s common practice to cover the stems with soil while leaving the top leaves visible. Plants should be 6 to 8 inches tall. Every two or three weeks, build mounds that are 8 to 12 inches high.
By utilizing loose soil or compost, potato hilling techniques can avoid root compression. The best time to hill potatoes is in the morning, when the plants are still cool. Hilling also aids in weed management throughout Texas’s long growth season by reducing nutrient competition and suffocating weeds.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Hilling Potatoes:
The construction of a sandy loam hill in Dallas improved clay drainage in North Texas. To counteract the 3 inches of rain that erode soil during March’s 60°F temperatures, build 10-inch mounds gradually.
In Central Texas, create hills with compost in Austin to improve drainage in clay or limestone soils. Build 8–10 inch mounds every 2–3 weeks to protect tubers from 2–3 inches of spring rain in 65°F temperatures.
South Texas: Applying a small layer of compost to hill Brownsville will keep water from pooling in sandy soils during the two-inch spring rains. Avoid heat stress in April by keeping mounds 8 inches deep when temperatures reach 80°F.
East Texas: A hill in Houston covered with pine bark serves to increase airflow and eliminate clay in conditions of 80% humidity. Build 12-inch mounds to protect tubers from 4-inch rain flooding.
West Texas: Construct 10-inch mounds near Lubbock using compost; they should be able to resist wind erosion at 20 mph. In dry springs with temperatures of 70 degrees, slope every two weeks to collect the little rain that falls (about an inch).
To withstand the 25 mph March winds, 8-inch mounds are being constructed on Loamy Hill in Amarillo, Panhandle. In temperatures below 50°F, use straw to prop up mounds and prevent soil erosion.
| Regions | Mound Height | Hilling Materials | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | 10 inches | Sandy loam | Clay drainage, spring rain erosion |
| Central Texas | 8–10 inches | Compost | Clay/limestone drainage, spring rain |
| South Texas | 8 inches | Compost | Sandy soils, prevent pooling, heat stress |
| East Texas | 12 inches | Pine bark | High humidity, flooding, airflow |
| West Texas | 10 inches | Compost | Wind erosion, low rainfall |
| Panhandle | 8 inches | Straw | Wind resistance, soil erosion |
Fertilizing Potatoes for Optimal Growth
Plants get the nutrients they need to grow through fertilization. Apply a spray of 10-10-10 or 5-10-10 fertilizer to potato plants when they reach a height of 6 inches for optimal results. Applying fertilizer as a side dressing, four inches away from the stems, will help avoid root burn.
Compost tea and fish emulsion are two examples of organic potato fertilizers that work wonders in Texas’s organic gardens. Because they favor leaves over tubers, you should avoid using fertilizers that are strong in nitrogen.
Potassium promotes tuber size, and phosphorus strengthens potato roots. Soil testing is essential for guiding applications and ensuring healthy harvests, especially in locations with limited nutrients.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Fertilizing Potatoes:
You can amend Fort Worth’s fertile clay with 1 pound of 5-10-10 fertilizer for every 100 square feet in North Texas. The three inches of spring rains wash away nutrients, so be careful not to overfertilize the soil and apply sparingly.
Central Texas: Apply 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet in Austin’s clay or limestone soils. Side-dress twice to counter nutrient loss from 2–3 inches of spring rain in 65°F springs.
South Texas: McAllen’s sandy soils, which become nutrient deficient when exposed to temperatures above 80°F, benefit most from the application of potassium-rich fertilizers (10-10-10). We recommend side-dressing twice, as 2-inch rains easily wash away fertilizer.
East Texas: Apply compost tea to the acidic soils of Tyler in the event of 80% humidity to avoid chemical buildup. Because 4-inch rains dilute nutrients, you should use one gallon for every ten plants.
Midland, Texas, has sandy soils that aren’t very fertile due to the annual rainfall of fifteen inches. To improve fertility, spread 1.5 pounds of 10-10-10 over one hundred square feet of soil. Soil testing is important because a pH of 8.0 locks in nutrients.
Apply half a pound of Amarillo fertilizer per hundred square feet in the Panhandle due to the short growing seasons. Use fish emulsion on loamy soils to boost potassium in 50°F fall crops without using too much nitrogen.
| Regions | Fertilizer Types | Amount | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | 5-10-10 | 1 lb/100 sq ft | Clay soils, nutrient loss from rain |
| Central Texas | 10-10-10 | 1 lb/100 sq ft | Clay/limestone, side-dress twice, rain |
| South Texas | 10-10-10 (potassium) | 1 lb/100 sq ft | Sandy soils, nutrient loss, side-dress |
| East Texas | Compost tea | 1 gal/10 plants | High humidity, nutrient dilution |
| West Texas | 10-10-10 | 1.5 lb/100 sq ft | Sandy soils, low fertility, soil testing |
| Panhandle | Fish emulsion | 0.5 lb/100 sq ft | Loamy soils, short season, potassium |
Monitoring for Pests in Texas
Ignoring bugs can lead to the destruction of potato crops. Texan potatoes are often plagued by pests like aphids, wireworms, and Colorado potato beetles. Two natural ways to keep potato pests at bay are neem oil and hand-picking.
One way to control aphids on potatoes is to use ladybugs, which eat the pests. Another option is to use insecticidal soap. Preventing wireworms in potatoes requires crop rotation and regular debris cleaning.
Per week, check the undersides of the leaves for any signs of eggs. Growing organic pest control potatoes in Texas is a wonderful alternative to using pesticides, which kill off beneficial insects. Floating row coverings protect young plants against early pests, especially in the warm spring when bugs are prevalent.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Monitoring Pests:
Be wary of bugs in the 60°F springtime in Dallas, North Texas. Since 3 inches of rain disperse bugs, pick by hand daily on clay soils and use neem oil (1 ounce per gallon of water).
Central Texas: Monitor for aphids and Colorado potato beetles in Austin’s 65°F springs. Hand-pick weekly and apply neem oil (1 ounce per gallon) to clay or limestone soils, especially after 2–3 inches of rain.
Aphids love the 75°F winters in Harlingen, Texas, in the southwestern United States. Once weekly, spray sandy soils with insecticidal soap and release 100 ladybugs per 100 square feet to control infestations.
Tyler, in East Texas, has an aphid problem due to its 80% humidity. Apply neem oil (1 ounce per gallon) to potato pests and use row covers to block bugs in clay soils after a four-inch rainfall.
West Texas: Wireworms rule the driest, sandy soils of Lubbock, Texas, even after an inch of rain. Clear debris to starve larvae and rotate crops every three years in springtime when the temperature is 70°F.
Panhandle: Beetles make an appearance in Amarillo during the 50°F March weather. Use row covers and hand-pick beetles in loamy soils because cold winds (25 mph) slow down natural predators like birds.
| Regions | Common Pests | Control Methods | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Various | Hand-pick, neem oil | Clay soils, spring rain disperses bugs |
| Central Texas | Aphids, beetles | Hand-pick, neem oil | Clay/limestone soils, spring rain |
| South Texas | Aphids | Insecticidal soap, ladybugs | Sandy soils, warm winters |
| East Texas | Aphids | Neem oil, row covers | High humidity, clay soils, rainfall |
| West Texas | Wireworms | Crop rotation, debris removal | Sandy soils, dry conditions |
| Panhandle | Beetles | Row covers, hand-pick | Loamy soils, cold winds |
Managing Potato Diseases in Texas
Scabs and blights pose a hazard to potato crops. Two methods for avoiding potato blight are to choose resistant cultivars and to avoid watering from above. Remove affected leaves and apply copper fungicides if you see brown spots on the leaves, which is an indication of early potato blight.
Potato scab control and crop rotation every three years keep the soil pH below 6.5. The fungi that cause potato illnesses thrive in damp conditions, so it’s important to keep the air moving.
Crop rotation is an effective method for potato farmers to prevent soil-borne illnesses such as verticillium wilt. Particularly in the warm and humid climate of Texas, it is crucial to disinfect tools and clear them of debris after harvest to stop the spread of disease.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Managing Potato Diseases:
In North Texas, the likelihood of blight in Fort Worth’s wet springs increases with every three inches of rain. For optimal air circulation, plant tough potato varieties like Kennebec with 3.5-foot intervals between rows on clay.
Central Texas: Prevent blight in Austin by planting resistant varieties like Kennebec and spacing rows 3 feet apart for air circulation. Apply copper fungicide (1 ounce per gallon) after 2–3 inches of spring rain in 65°F conditions.
Humidity of 80% in Brownsville, South Texas, causes blight. When watering sandy soils in January, when temperatures reach 75°F, use one ounce of copper fungicide per gallon and avoid watering at night.
In Tyler, East Texas, cases of fungal infections have been on the rise due to the city’s heavy 4-inch rainfall and 80% relative humidity. Rotating crops and adding sulfur dust to clay soils can help manage potato scab by reducing pH.
Scab is more common in Midland, West Texas, because of the area’s acidic soils (pH 8.0). For sandy soils, apply 1 pound of sulfur per 100 square feet and rotate crops in dry springs when temperatures reach 70°F.
Scabs thrive in the Amarillo region’s alkaline loamy soils, which are located in the Panhandle. Applying sulfur, checking pH, and spacing plants 12 inches apart will reduce blight for cool 50°F fall crops.
| Regions | Common Diseases | Control Methods | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Blight | Resistant varieties, spacing | Wet springs, clay soils, air circulation |
| Central Texas | Blight | Resistant varieties, fungicide | Spring rain, clay/limestone, air flow |
| South Texas | Blight | Copper fungicide, avoid night water | High humidity, sandy soils |
| East Texas | Fungal, potato scab | Crop rotation, sulfur dust | High humidity, heavy rainfall |
| West Texas | Potato scab | Sulfur, crop rotation | Alkaline sandy soils, dry conditions |
| Panhandle | Potato scab, blight | Sulfur, spacing | Alkaline loamy soils, fall crops |
Mulching Potatoes for Moisture and Weed Control
Mulching reduces weeds and conserves water. Following hilling, cover the soil with a layer of 2-3 inches of high-quality mulch, like straw, pine needles, or grass clippings. Mulching potatoes in Texas helps to retain moisture in dry areas and cools the roots when it’s scorching outside.
To keep potato crops from rotting, spread mulch uniformly and be certain not to touch the stems. To better control weeds in potatoes, use mulch, which slows their growth.
Restock mulch as it decomposes throughout the long season in Texas. Applying organic mulches to low-nutrient areas can boost soil quality and fertility in the long run.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Mulching Potatoes:
North Texas: After three inches of rain, apply three inches of straw mulch to stabilize the clay soils near Dallas. Apply carefully to avoid standing water, which rots springs at 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Central Texas: Apply 2–3 inches of straw mulch in Austin to retain moisture in clay or limestone soils after 2–3 inches of spring rain. Keep mulch 1 inch from stems to prevent rot in 65°F springs.
2-inch pine needle mulch covers cool sandy soils in McAllen, Texas, despite the 80°F April heat. The thin layers that prevent humidity development in 2-inch showers lessen fungal dangers.
East Texas: In Houston, 4-inch straw mulch will absorb 4-inch rain runoff in 80% humidity. Keep mulch an inch away from stems to prevent rot in clay.
In Lubbock, Texas, where there is an inch of rain, three inches of pine bark mulch will keep sandy soils moist. Dense mulch may endure winds of up to 20 mph in dry springs with temperatures of 70 °F.
In the Panhandle, 3-inch Amarillo grass clippings can protect loamy soils from the 25 mph winds that blow in March. Cool evenings, with temperatures around 50°F, slow the decomposition of grass clippings, so you need to restock them once a month.
| Regions | Mulch Types | Mulch Depth | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Straw | 3 inches | Clay soils, prevent standing water |
| Central Texas | Straw | 2–3 inches | Clay/limestone, prevent rot, spring rain |
| South Texas | Pine needles | 2 inches | Sandy soils, reduce fungal risk, heat |
| East Texas | Straw | 4 inches | High humidity, absorb runoff, clay |
| West Texas | Pine bark | 3 inches | Sandy soils, wind resistance, moisture |
| Panhandle | Grass clippings | 3 inches | Loamy soils, wind protection, restock |
Adjusting Watering as Plants Mature
An adjustment is required for watering established plants. As tubers begin to develop, the amount of water that mature potato plants need each week should increase from one to two inches. The maintenance of moist soil during plant blooming indicates the development of tubers.
In Texas, this is the proper way to water potatoes. Overwatering potatoes causes them to become yellow, so reduce watering if you see this happening. Potatoes grown in waterlogged soil will have tubers that are too small.
Regular soil checks are necessary to prevent this. In dry areas, watering potatoes efficiently requires a drip system. Roots are less likely to suffer from water stress due to evaporation and fungal infections when watered first thing in the morning.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Watering Mature Plants:
In North Texas, irrigate the clay soils of Fort Worth once every five days, or one inch, to keep the water from 60°F springs from running off. Cut back to avoid root rot if three inches of rain causes yellowing.
Central Texas: Water every 4–5 days with 1–1.5 inches in Austin’s clay or limestone soils to support tuber growth in 65°F springs. Reduce watering if 2–3 inches of rain causes yellowing to prevent root rot.
In the sweltering 80°F April heat in Harlingen, Texas, the sandy soils need 1.5 inches of water every three days to stay hydrated. Use drip irrigation to make up for 1-inch rain gaps.
East Texas experiences an inch of precipitation every six days, with 80% humidity and 4 inches of rainfall. Apply a thick layer of mulch on top of wet clay soil to prevent potato root rot.
West Texas: When the weather warms up to 70 degrees Fahrenheit in the spring, plant potatoes deeply (1.5 inches every three days) on the sandy soils around Midland. Dripper devices can save water even with a monthly rainfall of one inch.
Panhandle: Water the Amarillo loamy soils once every four days (1 inch) when the temperature drops to 50°F in the fall. To avoid fungal issues after two-inch rains, apply mulch to retain moisture and water first thing in the morning.
| Regions | Watering Frequency | Water Amount | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Every 5 days | 1 inch | Clay soils, reduce if yellowing |
| Central Texas | Every 4–5 days | 1–1.5 inches | Clay/limestone, reduce if yellowing |
| South Texas | Every 3 days | 1.5 inches | Sandy soils, drip irrigation, heat |
| East Texas | Every 6 days | 1 inch | High humidity, mulch, prevent rot |
| West Texas | Every 3 days | 1.5 inches | Sandy soils, drip irrigation, low rain |
| Panhandle | Every 4 days | 1 inch | Loamy soils, mulch, morning watering |
Recognizing When Potatoes Are Ready to Harvest
Knowing when to harvest tubers is critical to maintaining their quality. Different cultivars of potatoes have different optimal harvest times in Texas; early variants reach maturity in 70–90 days, while main-season varieties need 90–120 days.
The potatoes are ripe when the vines die and the foliage turns yellow. One technique to tell when potatoes are ready to harvest is to dig near the plants and estimate the size of the tubers; the skins should be firm when picked.
Dig new potatoes, sometimes called early harvest potatoes, when they are in the blossoming stage. Early morning harvesting of potatoes is ideal for avoiding heat stress and ensuring tubers keep well.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Recognizing Harvest Time:
Harvest in Dallas occurs in May, 90-100 days after planting in February, when the vines turn yellow in 70°F temps. The location is in North Texas. To avoid damaging tubers, dig gently in clay soils after a three-inch rainfall.
Central Texas: Harvest in April, 80–90 days after planting in late January, in Austin when foliage yellows in 70–75°F temps. Check tuber skins in clay or limestone soils after 2–3 inches of rain to ensure firmness.
In South Texas, harvest 70–80 days after planting in January, specifically in April, when temperatures in Brownsville have not yet reached 85°F. While sandy soils facilitate digging, make sure to check the tuber skins after a two-inch rainfall.
In April, when the Houston foliage fades from 80 to 90 days of 80% humidity, harvest in East Texas. Dig tubers out of clay soils with a fork to keep them from rotting after a 4-inch rainstorm.
Temperatures of 75 degrees Fahrenheit characterize the West Texas harvest that occurs in Lubbock in June, some 100 to 120 days following planting in March. While sandy soils facilitate digging, they require only a light sprinkle—about an inch of rain—to become workable.
Harvesting in Amarillo begins in November, 90 days after planting in August, when temperatures reach 50°F. The location is in the Panhandle. It is important to exercise caution when digging in loamy soils so as not to damage tubers.
| Regions | Harvest Time | Days to Maturity | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | May | 90–100 days | Clay soils, yellowing vines, rainfall |
| Central Texas | April | 80–90 days | Clay/limestone, check skins, spring rain |
| South Texas | April | 70–80 days | Sandy soils, check skins, heat |
| East Texas | April | 80–90 days | Clay soils, high humidity, rainfall |
| West Texas | June | 100–120 days | Sandy soils, dry conditions |
| Panhandle | November | 90 days | Loamy soils, cool temps, careful digging |
Harvesting Potatoes Without Damage
Precautionary harvesting preserves the quality of tubers. When harvesting potatoes in Texas, take care to lift plants 12 inches from the stem and use a garden fork to avoid cutting tubers. Digging potatoes on a dry day is part of the process of keeping dirt from sticking.
Potatoes are best harvested with forks or shovels that have rounded edges. Remove any excess dirt by shaking the tubers. Do not wash the tubers until they are ready to be used, as moisture promotes rot.
The skins of potatoes need to be hardened by curing them for a week or two in a dark, airy place at a temperature of 60 to 70°F before they can be stored for an extended period of time.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Harvesting Potatoes:
North Texas: To avoid slicing tubers in the 70°F May heat, use a fork to dig deeply into the Fort Worth clay soils. Curing under a carport will protect your goods from the 3-inch spring showers.
Central Texas: Dig carefully with a fork in Austin’s clay or limestone soils in April at 70–75°F. Cure tubers in a shaded, airy shed to protect them from 2–3 inches of spring rain and prevent rot.
If you live in South Texas, you should dig in the sandy soils of Brownsville in April when the temperature is 80°F. This is because tubers lift easily. To keep from going bad in a 2-inch rainstorm with 80% humidity, cure inside.
Harvest using a fork in the 80 percent damp clay soils surrounding Houston in east Texas. To avoid 4-inch rain mud, excavate on a dry day and then cure the material in a well-ventilated shed.
West Texas: Dig in Lubbock’s sandy soils in June when the temperature is 75°F. Dry circumstances (less than an inch of rain) make digging easier, but you should cure tubers in a cool place so they don’t dry out.
When the temperature reaches 50°F in November, excavate the loamy soils of Amarillo in the Panhandle using a fork. To make sure the skins toughen up properly and shield them from 25 mph cold gusts, cure them in a cellar.
| Region | Harvesting Method | Curing Location | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Fork, careful digging | Carport | Clay soils, spring showers |
| Central Texas | Fork, careful digging | Shaded, airy shed | Clay/limestone, spring rain, prevent rot |
| South Texas | Fork | Indoors | Sandy soils, high humidity, rainfall |
| East Texas | Fork | Well-ventilated shed | Clay soils, heavy rainfall, dry day |
| West Texas | Fork | Cool place | Sandy soils, dry conditions, prevent drying |
| Panhandle | Fork | Cellar | Loamy soils, cold winds, skin toughening |
Curing and Storing Potatoes Properly
Potatoes can be preserved and cured to extend their shelf life. For one to two weeks after harvest, the tubers should be kept in a dark, airy place with temperatures between 60 and 70°F and humidity levels of 85 percent to harden their skins.
Cold, dark, and well-ventilated (40-50°F) is the ideal storage environment for potatoes; therefore, a cellar is a good choice. The ideal way to store potatoes is in burlap bags or perforated plastic containers so that moisture doesn’t accumulate.
To prevent potatoes from sprouting, check the tubers once a month and remove any sprouts you see. A steady supply of potatoes may be assured throughout the mild winters in Texas thanks to long-term storage, which, under ideal conditions, can endure for four to six months.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Curing and Storing Potatoes:
North Texas: Let it cure for two weeks at 60°F in a Fort Worth garage, and try to avoid rainfall of more than three inches. Burlap bags stored in a 45°F cellar will keep plants from growing even in mild 50°F winters.
Central Texas: Cure for two weeks at 65°F in a shaded Austin shed to avoid 2–3 inches of spring rain. Store in burlap bags in a 45°F cellar to prevent sprouting in 50–55°F winters.
Brownsville, South Texas, recommends indoor curing at 65°F because rot can occur in areas with 80% humidity and 2-inch rainfall. To stay cool during the hot winters, keep the items in a room at 50°F using perforated bins.
To moderate 4-inch rainfall and 80% humidity in East Texas, use fans in a Tyler shed. Storing seeds in sacks within a cellar maintained at 40°F will prevent them from sprouting during humid winters when temperatures reach 55°F.
West Texas: Cure in a Lubbock cold room (60°F) to avoid drying in 20% humidity. During dry 50°F winters with 1 inch of rain, monitor for shriveling and store in containers in a 45°F shed.
To avoid winds of 25 mph in the Panhandle, cure in a basement in Amarillo that is 55°F. Place the items in sacks and store them in a 40°F cellar; check them once a month to prevent sprouts from developing during 30°F winters.
| Regions | Curing Conditions | Storage Methods | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | 60°F, 2 weeks | Burlap bags, 45°F cellar | Avoid rainfall, mild winters |
| Central Texas | 65°F, 2 weeks | Burlap bags, 45°F cellar | Spring rain, prevent sprouting |
| South Texas | 65°F, indoors | Perforated bins, 50°F | High humidity, prevent rot |
| East Texas | Fans, shed | Sacks, 40°F cellar | High humidity, rainfall, prevent sprouting |
| West Texas | 60°F, cold room | Containers, 45°F shed | Low humidity, prevent shriveling |
| Panhandle | 55°F, basement | Sacks, 40°F cellar | Cold winds, check for sprouts |
Rotating Crops to Maintain Soil Health
Crop rotation prevents both soil erosion and disease. Why is crop rotation important for potatoes? It reduces illnesses like Verticillium wilt and restores nutrients.
When growing potatoes, it’s best to plant non-solanaceous crops like corn and beans for three years before planting potatoes again. In nutrient-poor soils, such as those found in Texas, legumes are the perfect crop to plant alongside potatoes because they fix nitrogen.
Cover crops grown in the off-season, like clover, improve soil quality, which is beneficial for potato harvests. To avoid soil-borne potato diseases in Texas, where warm soils harbor pathogens, crop rotation is crucial. Make sure your garden stays productive by developing a rotation plan.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Crop Rotation:
Rotate beans with your crops to replenish the nitrogen in Fort Worth’s clay soils after heavy rainfall (three inches or more) has washed away the nutrients. Plant clover in the fall when the soil temperature is 50°F to improve the soil.
Central Texas: Rotate with legumes like peas in Austin’s clay or limestone soils to restore nitrogen after 2–3 inches of spring rain. Sow clover in fall at 50–55°F to enhance soil quality.
South Texas: Utilize corn in the sandy soils of Brownsville due to the depletion of nutrients caused by 2-inch rains and temperatures over 80°F. Planting ryegrass cover crops in winter temperatures of 60°F stabilizes the soil.
Rotate peas in Tyler’s clay soils to withstand 80% humidity and 4-inch rainfall in East Texas. For a more fruitful winter at 55 degrees Fahrenheit, sow vetch in the fall.
To fix nitrogen, grow alfalfa on the sandy soils of Lubbock when it rains an inch in West Texas. Wheat cover crops can prevent erosion in 50°F winters with winds up to 20 mph.
A 2-inch rainfall in the loamy soils of the Amarillo region washes away nutrients, which is why the Panhandle recommends rotating crops with maize. Planting clover in the fall, even in 30°F winters, can improve soil and reduce scabs effectively.
| Regions | Rotation Crops | Cover Crops | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Beans | Clover | Clay soils, nutrient loss, fall planting |
| Central Texas | Peas | Clover | Clay/limestone, nutrient loss, fall sowing |
| South Texas | Corn | Ryegrass | Sandy soils, nutrient depletion, winter |
| East Texas | Peas | Vetch | Clay soils, high humidity, winter sowing |
| West Texas | Alfalfa | Wheat | Sandy soils, erosion, winter planting |
| Panhandle | Maize | Clover | Loamy soils, nutrient loss, reduce scabs |
Planning for Next Season’s Crop
Planning assures future success. Selecting new potato cultivars in Texas is an integral part of crop planning that takes past performance into account. Considerations of yield and disease resistance are made when choosing potato cultivars for the forthcoming season.
Store the young, healthy tubers from your harvest in a dark, cool place (40°F) to preserve seed potatoes. Before planting potatoes again in the spring, farmers use cover crops in the fall to enrich the soil.
The regional planting dates for potatoes in Texas are January through March; thus, the state’s potato planting schedule can be adjusted to match soil temperatures. Go over notes on weather, pests, and sickness to refine techniques and ensure better harvests every year.
Texas-Specific Guidance for Next Season’s Crop:
North Texas: In February, plant the Yukon Gold tubers you saved in Fort Worth’s clay soil. Plant clover in the fall after a three-inch rain to prepare the soil for 60°F spring temperatures.
Central Texas: Store Red LaSoda or Kennebec tubers in Austin until late January for planting in clay or limestone soils. Sow ryegrass in fall after 2–3 inches of rain to stabilize soil for 65°F springs.
Plant red LaSoda tubers in sandy soils in January by storing them in Brownsville, South Texas. To stabilize the 80°F winter soil, plant ryegrass in the fall after two inches of rain.
East Texas: Store Red Pontiac tubers in Tyler until late January, at which point you can plant them on clay. Grow vetch in the fall to fend off the 55°F winter rain and 80% humidity.
Keep the Kennebec tubers in Lubbock until March to plant them in sandy soils in West Texas. Plant wheat in the fall to prevent erosion in areas with 50°F winters and 1 inch of rain.
Keep russet tubers in Amarillo in the Panhandle until March or August, when you can plant them in loamy soils. When planted in the fall, clover improves soil fertility after two inches of rain in 30°F winters.
| Regions | Stored Variety | Planting Time | Cover Crops | Key Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| North Texas | Yukon Gold | February | Clover | Clay soils, spring prep, rainfall |
| Central Texas | Red LaSoda, Kennebec | Late January | Ryegrass | Clay/limestone, soil stabilization, rain |
| South Texas | Red LaSoda | January | Ryegrass | Sandy soils, winter prep, rainfall |
| East Texas | Red Pontiac | Late January | Vetch | Clay soils, humidity, winter prep |
| West Texas | Kennebec | March | Wheat | Sandy soils, erosion prevention |
| Panhandle | Russet | March, August | Clover | Loamy soils, soil fertility, fall prep |
Conclusion
Growing potatoes in Texas requires careful planning and familiarity with the area, but the payoff is worth it. By adapting your crop selection, soil preparation, and planting schedule to your local climate, you can increase the likelihood of harvesting robust and fruitful harvests.
Regular watering, hilling, and pest monitoring help plants survive in Texas’s diverse seasons. If you harvest and preserve your potatoes correctly, you can enjoy fresh ingredients for months to come.
Year after year, you can improve soil health and crop yields by using crop rotation and a well-planned growing season. With this Texas-specific guide, you’ll have all the information you need to grow potatoes, regardless of where you live in the Lone Star State.