Nothing beats fresh veggies picked from your garden. So that you don’t have to think about it, we’ll walk you through some of the most important considerations, such as where to plant your plants and how to feed and take care of them. Garden-fresh tomatoes can’t be compared to the flavorless kind found in supermarkets. Because of the structure of the American food chain, it might be days before you get your hands on a piece of produce from the grocery store.
Because of this technique, the overall quality of the product is often reduced. As intimidating as it may appear to raise your backyard garden, it is much easier than you think. It is so important to determine when it is appropriate to start seeds inside and when it is appropriate to plant outdoors, a to-do list that is planned and organized can be the difference between a successful and disappointing crop.
Below you will learn about San Antonio backyard gardening, the climate, and planting zones of San Antonio, when to start planting in San Antonio, a guide to starting a backyard garden in San Antonio, and how to grow various fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers in the backyards of San Antonio.
How is the climate, and what are the USDA hardiness zones of San Antonio?
Because of its high temperatures, San Antonio can be found in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 8b and 9a. The USDA uses the lowest average winter temperature to assist gardeners in determining what can withstand their coldest seasons! The minimum average temperature during the winter in Zone 8b ranges from 15°F to 20°F, whereas the lowest average winter temperature in Zone 9a ranges from 20°F to 25°F.
Winter gardens are doable in more temperate regions if the suitable crops have a shorter period between sowing and harvesting. For example, broccoli is a good choice for beginning in October. Raised beds and mulch are two methods that can be used to assist in maintaining the soil at a higher temperature, which is essential for protecting plants from the chilly temperatures, particularly in the more arid regions of San Antonio.
Mulch blocks the sun and slows water evaporation in the summer. If portions of your yard are prone to flooding, consider installing raised beds or drip watering systems for dry regions. San Antonio’s first frosts are usually around the middle of December, so any plants vulnerable to freezing should be relocated inside. Some of the city’s colder nooks get their first frost sooner, as early as mid-November.
Your local projected frost dates are critical when deciding when to start planting your garden in San Antonio since the weather may vary significantly across places. For many harvests, start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date. You can run into difficulties if you attempt a cold-weather garden. As a result of their late start, fall gardens often don’t have the time necessary to reach their full potential before frost. For this shorter cold season, look at the harvest times of your colder vegetables.
An area west of San Antonio is in the transitional humid subtropical zone, with long, humid summers and warm to chilly winters. Cool to frigid evenings are common, and nighttime temperatures often dip below freezing. Spring and autumn are normally pleasant, and the region is prone to heavy rains. Zones 8b and 9a of the USDA’s hardiness map place San Antonio between 15°F and 20°F and 20°F and 25°F, respectively.
Snow, sleet, or freezing rain fall on average once every two or three years in San Antonio; nevertheless, accumulation and actual snowfall are very unusual. There have been no snowfalls throughout the war for up to a decade.
San Antonio backyard gardening: A Step-by-step guide to starting a backyard garden in San Antonio
Decide what to grow in your backyard
Before planting, you must know what to grow. The backyard is ideal for growing various plants and herbs, while the balcony is more suitable for growing flowers. A small amount of a herb can have a wide range of applications. If you are just starting, selecting suitable plants for your location is of the utmost importance. Growing plants that are hardy in other zones than you are can be difficult and requires more skill.
Research using the USDA Hardiness Zones and Your Microclimate to find out which plants will thrive in your region with the least effort. This is of the utmost significance for growing vegetables since doing so requires a great deal of sunlight and an absence of frost. Researching various flower kinds with varying lifespans is important if you want to grow flowers in your backyard. Annuals bloom continuously throughout the summer but need to be replanted every spring, while perennials only bloom for a brief period but come back every year.
Decide a location in your backyard
Consider these four considerations while selecting a garden area. As a starting point, think about the amount of sunshine you require. It takes 6 to 8 hours for most veggies to bear fruit. The crop will be more plentiful if they get more sunlight. So, if you cannot get full light all day, is it preferable to have a position in your yard that gets morning or evening sun? The dew on the leaves will be evaporated by the sun’s rays in the morning, lowering the risk of fungal disease.
The second factor to examine is water, which brings us a full circle back to dew. How near is the backyard garden to the water source? Moisture control is critical for many plants. That necessitates the presence of a water supply that is easily accessible throughout the growing season. To avoid having a water shortage, it is best to keep the water supply close to the garden rather than far away.
You may not know it, but there is a reason why tomatoes crack and radishes split. It’s conceivable that the plant was attempting to save water because the soil was too dry, and then it rained heavily, producing fractures and splits. Another factor to remember is how much air is moving through the room. Fungal infections are responsible for a large number of foliar diseases.
Most fungi need water to stand on a leaf for eight hours or longer to infect a leaf. The fungus will not be able to infect the plant’s leaves if there is sufficient ventilation. Anything as simple as a fence or a home can restrict airflow. Planting too closely together is another method of obstructing airflow; however, this topic will be addressed later. Consider how easy it is to get to the garden when deciding where to put it.
Many people neglect their gardens since they are located in the backyard. The ground dries out. Weeds take over the area. Insufficient time is given to the harvesting of the crops. In a nutshell, the garden fails. Choose a location for your garden where you can view it and desire to take care of it.
When deciding on a place for a backyard garden, paying attention to these four site qualities is essential. Backyard gardens require 8 hours of sunlight, water, and ventilation to grow. There will be fewer fungal disease concerns and higher production in a location with all 4 of these traits, as well as more often visited and appreciated.
Prepare the soil in your backyard
A wide range of soil types can be found depending on where you reside. These range from sandy and dry to rocky and shallow, wet and peaty to sticky and sand-like. Roots, water, and weeds interact differently with these distinct soils. Not all of them, however, are suited to plant growth. Soils with a lot of sand don’t store as much water as those with a lot of clay. It’s best to have soil that is moist to the touch but still crumbles when you touch it.
At the same time, good soil has to be wet and aerated. Soil made up of rocks and pebbles tends to be deficient in nutrients; this is not the case with good soil. Even if excellent soil might be hard to come by in many areas of the nation, it does not imply that you must go out and buy a bag of potting soil every time you want to garden. You can still get wonderful results by using the soil in your yard.
Keeping some on hand is not bad, particularly if your soil is hostile. You may have to start from scratch and build a fresh mix in certain circumstances. It is possible to enhance even the most hostile garden soils. Organic matter can be added to improve the soil’s ability to support plant growth. It can also improve the soil’s quality, making excavation easier. It can even alleviate some of the drawbacks of problematic soils.
When added to soil, organic matter loosens hard clay and increases the water that sand can retain, making it ideal for planting. Organic compounds may be added to the soil to increase its quality. Starting a compost bin in your garden or kitchen is the simplest way to dispose of your organic waste. When you’re ready to plant, combine soil, air, and water with nitrogen- and carbon-rich materials to create a superb fertilizer.
Leaves, straw, and grass clippings are examples of plant matter. Start by building a backyard mulch pile. This is because you will need to incorporate the plant components into the soil for several months to break down. This is a good start time; you’ll notice favorable benefits by spring. Soil preparation can be aided by adding a layer of composted manure to the surface before planting.
On the other hand, composted manure is often a safer choice since fresh manure can cause harm to plants and transfer diseases into the soil while utilizing fresh manure is not recommended by most experts. If you live near an organic farm, you may be able to buy this ready-made.
Start planting your backyard garden
If you’re planting straight into the ground, remove any clods by raking the soil and allowing the sprouts to reach the sun. Growing plants in rows make weeding much simpler and faster. If you want your rows to be straight, you may use a small stake and a piece of twine to connect each one. A shallow channel should be made along the string, and seeds should be sown into it by the directions provided on the seed packs.
As the seed size decreases, so does the amount of soil required to cover it. Once the seed has been lightly smothered in fine dirt, use your hand to firmly press down on the row. To avoid washing away the seeds, use a thin spray of water. As a general guideline, the distance between rows needs to be at least 30 centimeters; the larger the vegetable, the wider apart the rows ought to be. It is pretty simple to plant more seeds than you will ever use; thus, it is essential to stagger planting.
More area is required for large plants to thrive than for tiny ones. It makes logical, but it can be difficult to tell the difference between seedlings and mature plants just on their size. Before planting seeds, it is important to consider the plant’s eventual size. Even the smallest seed has the potential to develop into a gigantic tree or a network of extensive roots.
Consider yourself the plant, and consider how much area it will need to thrive. Check the seed packaging or search online for the plant’s mature size and how much room it will require in the ground if you’re unsure. Any given space will have a variable amount of plants depending on the kind you choose to grow.
Planting crops too close to one another is a common error made by novice gardeners, and it sometimes takes them years to find out where they are going wrong. Why? Because it’s tough to picture how big a plant will grow in its ultimate location. You could think the space between plants is excessive. However, allowing them that additional space is a gift of opportunity for growth. Other plants can suffer as they develop and run out of room if you overcrowd them.
Water your backyard garden
“How frequently and when should I water my garden?” is a common question. However, it is a good rule of thumb to apply roughly an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) of water once a week; the actual amount of water that should be used varies under several different conditions. Deep, infrequent watering is preferable to shallow, more frequent watering.
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Consider your soil first. In general, sandy soils are less water-conserving than heavy clay soils. Consequently, it will dry out quicker and retain moisture longer than clay-like soil. This is why composting the soil is so critical. It’s easier to drain water from healthy soil but retain some moisture. Mulch can also help reduce the water you need to irrigate your lawn.
When watering your garden, weather circumstances also have a role. For instance, you will need to water your plants more often if the weather is hot and dry. Of course, when it rains, there is no need for watering. Watering schedules are set by plants as well. You should water your plants by their specific demands. As with freshly planted plants, mature plants need more water.
Because of their shallow root systems, most vegetables, bedding plants, and perennials need daily watering at temperatures over 85 degrees F (29 C.). When temperatures are high and circumstances are dry, most plants in containers need to be hydrated daily, sometimes even twice or thrice daily. The time of day also has a role in when to water plants.
Even though early watering minimizes evaporation, late afternoon watering is OK if you avoid wetting the leaves, which may lead to fungal problems. Roots grow deeper and stronger when watered deeply. Because of this, it is best to water your garden once a week with around 2 inches (5 cm.) of water. Evaporation and lower root development result from watering more often but less deeply.
Except for lawns, most people avoid using overhead sprinklers since they waste more water due to evaporation. Drip watering or soaker hoses are always preferable since they provide water directly to the roots of the plant while allowing the leaves to remain dry. If you’ve got a tiny garden or container plants, hand watering is still an option, but it’s best reserved for such areas.
Fertilize your backyard garden
In spring, fertilize gardens to grow food. If you’ve already started your seeds or seedlings, you can still use granular fertilizer around the plants. Be careful not to use liquid fertilizer since it might burn the young roots. No more than the top 3 to 5 inches of soil need to be worked in. Then add the fertilizer and water it in.
Before spring growth starts, nourish perennial blooming plants. Wait for softening ground before planting a week before your last frost date. This reduces the risk of frost killing the fragile new growth that the fertilizer has induced. This is an important consideration. Even while applying fertilizer in the spring is a solid rule of thumb, it is important to remember that plants need the most assistance when actively developing.
If you’re planning to grow any leafy greens in the spring, you’ll notice that this happens sooner than usual. Corn and squash grow quickly in the middle of the summer. Fertilizer is often applied in two stages, the first at planting time and the second at the start of the growing season, just before the high foliar growth phase, for long-season crops like corn.
The plants absorb and utilize existing nutrients. Therefore, mid-season fertilization is required for tomatoes and potatoes. When the tomato plants begin to produce flowers, you should switch to a fertilizer with a low nitrogen content to promote the growth of more flowers and fruit instead of foliage.
Perennial plants’ development cycles determine the best time to transplant. Fertilizing blueberries early in the season around bud break is best, whereas fertilizing June-bearing strawberries after harvest is best. It’s common to practice ornamental feeding plants at the start of their growing season when dormancy has broken.
For example, 3-4-4, 8-24-8, or 12-12-12 are all fertilizer bag numbers. Plants need potassium, nitrogen, and phosphorus. Each nutrient’s proportion of the bag’s total weight is shown in the numbers. The proportion of the bag’s weight that the numbers represent can be found by summing them together. Magnesium, calcium, iron, and manganese are just a few of the several nutrients that are also present.
Use a basic vegetable fertilizer to get your crop off to a good start. For roots to grow and develop properly, phosphorous is essential. Potassium enhances the resistance of plants against disease. The first number, nitrogen, has been reduced. You’re not alone if you’ve seen a tomato plant with a lot of foliage but no fruit. Nitrogen, which promotes leafy development in plants, is to blame.
At this point, vegetables need the most nitrogen, as they’ve grown a lot or have already started producing fruit. Overdosing nitrogen before this point delays maturity and lowers blooming and production. In addition to supplying your plants with nitrogen, the decomposition of organic materials in your soil will also contribute to their growth.
Pest and disease management for your backyard garden
Pests pose a greater threat to your garden’s health than weeds. Small rodents like moles and gophers are responsible for destroying seedlings and creating holes in the ground. You should schedule frequent visits from an exterminator to your home to maintain a healthy level of pest control. Aphids and bug larvae can cause significant damage to your plants; as a result, you need to take action as soon as possible.
If you have little plant kinds on your balcony housed in a planter, you can remove the pests by hand using a pair of tweezers. If you have bigger beds, you can use a jet of water to spray these insects away every day. By doing this, they won’t be able to eat your plants. In addition to this, check to see that the plants in the garden do not have any signs of diseases or stress.
When a plant has been harmed or under stress, parasites are more likely to infest it than when it is healthy. Similarly, fungi-caused diseases have the same effect. Take out plants significantly infected with fungus to prevent the disease from being passed on to other plants in the bed. Spraying pesticides on the area should only be done as a last option.
When to start planting in San Antonio?
Midway through December is often when San Antonio’s milder sections see their first frost, which means that any plants susceptible to frost should be brought indoors. These periods of the first frost occur earlier in some of the city’s older neighborhoods, sometimes as early as the middle of November. Your local projected frost dates are critical when deciding when to start planting your garden in San Antonio since the weather may vary greatly across places.
When you have a rough estimate of when the last frost will occur, you may begin starting your seeds inside approximately 6-8 weeks before that date. This will allow you to have additional harvests. You can run into challenges if you want to grow a garden during the colder months. The planting of fall gardens often has to take place at a relatively late stage, so the plants may not have the time to develop to their full potential.
Consider the time it takes to harvest your colder vegetables to determine whether or not they will thrive in this year’s shorter cold season. Although certain parts of San Antonio have weather that is somewhat milder than others, the threats to the health of plants are not significantly different. Many plants thrive during the balmy summer months; nevertheless, the leaves of other plants may be damaged by the sun’s scorching heat if exposed to it.
Some plant species cannot withstand the winter season’s periodic freezing temperatures very well. Look for plants that can withstand both hot and cold conditions, and consider the dangers specific to your regions, such as those posed by insects, floods, sun exposure, and the makeup of the soil.
Creating raised beds that help you guard against the cold and any spots where water gathers, as well as mulch to help control the temperatures of the soil, are some ways that you can broaden the selection of plants that grow well in your yard in San Antonio. Other options include purchasing or bringing hardy plants in San Antonio and bringing them into your yard from another location.
Top vegetables to plant in San Antonio’s backyards
Many vegetables like eggplant, squash, melons, tomatoes, potatoes, Malabar spinach, cucumbers, broccoli, mustard, turnips, cauliflower, cabbage, collards, and other vegetables can be grown in the backyards of San Antonio.
Peppers: Peppers can be grown in the spring, but you’ll receive a better harvest if you plant them in the summer. After transplanting, pinch or prune the plant’s top to boost output. Consider eliminating any early flowers if they’re in the way. These two approaches can be used together to assist immature pepper plants in establishing faster and growing bushier, more productive plants.
Tomato: Young tomato transplants should be planted between the middle of June and the beginning of July so that the plants can get a head start and have plenty of time to flourish before the season’s first frost. Reduce production by cutting the bottom third of leaves and branches, then planting deeper to cover the nodes. Roots can then form from the nodes rather than leaves.
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Malabar spinach: The greater the temperature, the better for Malabar Spinach. It grows so rapidly that some people are upset because it generates an excessive amount. Red and green-stemmed types are exceedingly decorative and can be used in any edible landscape. Its heart-shaped leaves are substantially thicker and darker than those of their namesake. Cooking time for the thicker leaves is up to two times longer than conventional spinach. It’s possible to include them in various recipes that call for spinach.
Black-eyed peas: Plant them in late summer or early fall since they can tolerate extreme heat and drought, producing hundreds of ripe fresh peas each harvest. If you can’t wait, you can eat the sensitive young leaves raw in salads or cooked like spinach all around the globe. In addition, young, immature pods can be eaten like green beans by snapping them off. As a result, yardlong beans are a popular option for green beans because of their large yields in hotter areas.
Okra: This hibiscus plant is a breeze regarding growing veggies in Texas. Because they resemble ornamental hibiscus so closely, smuggling them into existing flowerbeds is easy. Pick your okra daily while the pods are still under 4 inches long to get the most out of it. When the first frost comes, they will continue to produce until then.
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Top fruits to plant in San Antonio’s backyards
Many fruits such as Blackberries, Plums, Pears, melons, citrus, Figs, Peaches, Pecans, Persimmons, and other fruits can be grown in the backyards of San Antonio.
Figs: To preserve fresh figs for longer, they are usually consumed dry. It’s not impossible to discover some if you’re patient and have the appropriate timing. Good yields are produced by three cultivars: Alma, Celeste, and Texas Everbearing. Figs, however, can take a serious battering when the weather becomes cold. Fig season typically begins in the middle of June and lasts until the end of August; however, some varieties produce a second harvest in the fall.
Melons: The melon would be the state fruit if the grapefruit weren’t. Texans love nothing more than a cool, refreshing slice of melons at the height of summer. In every corner of the state, melons flourish and bear fruit in plenty.
In addition to the more typical cantaloupes, honeydew, and watermelon, farmers’ markets may also include Canary, Christmas, and other melons. During the warm autumn months in San Antonio, you can anticipate melons to appear as early as May and last far into October and even November.
Pears: Few fruits thrive in all parts of the state, and the pear is one of them. Some trees have outlived the dwellings they were placed in. European and Asian pears are two separate varieties.
Persimmons: Persimmons are a kind of fruit that are tiny and orange in color, and they appear like a mix between an apple and an orange, as well as a tomato. The American Persimmon and the Texas Persimmon are both native kinds. The Oriental Persimmon, on the other hand, is the most widely available kind in shops.
A good number of the oriental types that have been acclimated to the climate of Texas produce seedless fruits ranging in color from yellow to dark red. The earliest types start to mature in September, but most varieties do not begin to ripen until late October or November.
Pomegranates: In areas with long, dry summers, pomegranates thrive. Something that Texas has in spades. Shape, color, and flavor are all different. Because of the very high concentration of antioxidants that they contain, they are sometimes referred to as a “superfood.” A single tree’s yields increase year after year as it matures. The early-ripening cultivars will be ready by September, while the later-ripening kinds will be available through October and November.
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Top flowers to plant in San Antonio’s backyards
Many flowers include bluebonnets, black foot daisy, crepe myrtle, feather plume, Texas wisteria wild bergamot, begonias, caladiums, vinca, coleus, Mandeville, petunias, and other flowers can be grown in the backyards of San Antonio.
Bluebonnet: Spring in San Antonio means seeing the state flower, the bluebonnet, which is well-known to Texans. The best place to grow wild native flowers is in a spot that requires a little ground cover. The plant will blossom in the spring and provide a lovely shade of blue-purple to the area. As a bonus, they’ll help you flaunt your Texan spirit.
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Blackfoot daisy: The Blackfoot Daisy is known for its capacity to withstand drought conditions, as well as its ability to fight disease and pests. You’ll see little white blooms with golden centers in spring and summer. Birds and butterflies, two of the area’s most important pollinators, adore these blooms. The best location to put them is near the front or back door, where they can be seen from the street.
Crepe Myrtle: The Crepe Myrtle is a well-known feature of the San Antonio landscape because of its long-lasting crimson blossoms. Because of their small size and eye-catching foliage, these lovely trees may be seen in abundance throughout the neighborhood. If you grow a Crepe Myrtle in a location that receives full sun or some partial shade, you should keep an eye out for a large number of bird species. To create a safe appearance, place them on each side of your walks or in a sunny position in the garden that may use some extra vertical appeal in design.
Feather plume: Many San Antonio residents choose this low-growing shrub because it has no thorns. When given the right circumstances, feather plumes can reach heights of six feet. Small spike-like purple or pink blooms bloom on this shrub. The plant’s feather-like petals are covered with tiny fuzzy hairs. Feather plume needs just a tiny quantity of water, sunlight, and drier soil to grow well.
Texas wisteria: Known for its capacity to climb, this vine gives height to any garden. Large, light purple blossoms on Texas Wisteria, which can reach a height of 30 feet, cover the plant in a swath of color. The blossoms have a pleasant scent, making them a good choice for an arbor or a pathway. You should pick a clipping from a healthy Texas Wisteria plant to guarantee that you obtain flowers straight soon. Otherwise, it will take a decade to grow.
Top herbs to plant in San Antonio’s backyards
Many herbs such as lemon balm, lemon grass, mint, oregano, rosemary, thyme, basil, chives, sage, and other herbs can be grown in the backyards of San Antonio.
Chives: The tiniest onion in the onion family, these delicate greens can be produced from seed or transplants and can be harvested at any time. Cottage cheese, sour cream, butter, and cream cheese are just a few of the common ingredients that chives can be found in. Onion chives and garlic chives can be found at most grocery stores.
Cilantro: “Cilantro,” a bright green, leafy plant, is one of our favorites here in town. Salsas and other Mexican foods rely heavily on it. It has a distinct “clean” taste, but be careful not to overdo it using mature leaves. Sowing Coriander seeds every few weeks ensures a steady supply of fresh herbs throughout the summer.
Dill: There are several uses for both the leaves and the seeds. Pickling, cream cheese, most vegetables, seafood, vinegar-based salad dressings, and marinades are good places to use. In the spring and fall, dill flourishes in the milder temperatures, although it is easy to grow from seed. Both dill and parsley are favorites of the caterpillars with green and yellow stripes.
Rosemary: Rosemary flourishes in San Antonio because it is a hardy plant. Besides being a tasty culinary herb, it also makes a beautiful landscape plant. There are a plethora of options to choose from. It may be purchased as either a bush that stands upright and reaches a height of between 4 and 5 feet or as a shrub that lies on its side and can be used by certain gardeners as a groundcover.
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Sage: In the San Antonio region, this herb can also serve as a hardy plant for landscaping. Despite its resistance to drought, overwatering may quickly destroy it. Sage is best grown from seed or cuttings, not transplants. Garden Sage, Blue Sage, Pineapple Sage, Tri-Colored Sage, and Clary Sage are some available sage kinds. It’s possible to cook with anything. Before use, sage leaves should be well dried. Sage is an essential ingredient in bird stuffing. Pork, poultry, eggs, and cheese all go well with it.
Growing Backyard Indian Vegetables, Flowers, Fruits, and Herbs in San Antonio, Texas
You can easily grow Indian vegetables such as Bottle Gourd (Sorakaya), Ridge Gourd (Beerakaya), Snake Gourd (Potlakaya), Cluster Beans (Goru Chikkudu), Broad beans (Chikkudukaya), Gongura, Bitter Gourd (Kakarakaya), Ivy Gourd (Dondakaya), Yellow Cucumber (Dosakaya), Malabar Spinach (Bachalikura), Ginger (Allam), Garlic (Vellulli), Bayleaf, Moringa (Drumstick/Munagakaya), Turmeric (Pasupu), Taro root/Arbi Root (Chamadumpa), (Okra Bhindi/Bendakaya), Green Chilli (Pachi Mirchi), Brinjal (Vankaya), Parwal, Methi Leaves (Menthikura), Curry Leaves (Karivepaku), Kothimeera, Ponnaganti Kura, Thotakura/Amaranthus, and Palakura/Spinach.
You can grow flowers such as Jasmin flowers (Malle Poolu), Marigolds (Banthipoolu), Crossandra (Kanakambaram), Chrysanthemums (Chamanthi Poolu), Gerbera, Bougainvillea, Dahlia, and Hibiscus (Mandaram).
You can also grow fruits such as Guava (Jama), Custard Apple (Sitaphal), Mango (Aam/Mamidi), Jamun (Alla Neredu), Sapota/Sapodilla, Indian Ber (Regi Pallu), and Indian Gooseberry (Amla/Usirikaya).
Gardening encourages you to spend time outdoors, engage in conversation with other people who have a similar interest, and take personal responsibility for meeting your needs for physical activity, nutritious food, and aesthetically pleasing surroundings. Digging, transporting, and harvesting are all activities that are beneficial to your physical strength, cardiovascular health, weight, quality of sleep, and immune systems.
And they are only the results of the body’s physiological processes. The act of gardening can also foster emotions of self-empowerment and connectedness, as well as an increased capacity for creative quiet. Getting your hands dirty and eating clean is beneficial to your health, no matter the size of your plot, whether it’s a raised bed, a communal garden, or a window box.
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