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Growing Potted Flower Plants – A Full Planting Guide

Growing Potted Flower Plants

Hello gardeners, we are back with an interesting topic today and the topic is all about growing Potted Flower Plants. Do you want to grow Potted Flower Plants? Well and then you need to follow this complete article to know about growing Potted Flower Plants easily. In this article, we will also mention all the requirements for growing Potted Flower Plants.

Introduction to Growing Potted Flower Plants

Growing Potted Flower Plants lets you skip the dirty work of weeding and even clearing a soil bed or a garden. Instead, you can even get right to the fun stuff.  Just start by providing the light and soil conditions that your specific plants prefer. When you are ready to plant, you need to nestle your plants into the pot, and then soak the soil to help them settle into their new home. Water, fertilize, and even prune them regularly, and keep an eye out for pests and disease. With very little effort, you can even keep your plants green throughout the growing season or, depending on the species, for years to come.

A Step-By-Step Planting Guide for Growing Potted Flower Plants

Guide for Growing Potted Flower Plants
Guide for Growing Potted Flower Plants (Image credit: pixabay)

Good Container Flowers for Sun

  • Angelonia
  • African daisy
  • Dahlia
  • Purple fountain grass
  • Lantana
  • Verbena
  • Zinnia
  • Tuberous Begonia

Good Container Flowers for Shade

  • Fuchsia
  • Impatiens
  • Browallia
  • Torenia

Good, Colourful Foliage Plants for Sun and Shade

  • Caladium (shade)
  • Coleus (sun and shade, depending on variety)
  • Phormium (full sun to part shade)
  • Canna (full sun to part shade)
  • Ferns (various types, filtered sun to shade)
  • Persian shield (full sun/part shade)
  • Ornamental sweet potato vine (full sun/part shade)
  • Ornamental grass (various types, full sun)

Good Container Flowers for Sun and Shade

  • Twinspur (full sun/part shade)
  • Mini petunia (full sun/part shade)
  • Nemesia (full sun/part shade)
  • Scaevola (full sun/part shade)
  • Salvia (full sun/part shade)

How to Create Right Environment for Growing Potted Flower Plants?

Create Right Environment for Growing Potted Flowers
Create Right Environment for Growing Potted Flowers (pic source: pixabay)

1) Choose containers with drainage holes

Pots are available in many colours, shapes, and sizes, but the foremost important consideration is drainage. Confirm any container you buy has small holes at rock bottom so your plants’ roots won’t drown.

If you cannot live without a pot that doesn’t have drainage holes, purchase a rather smaller plastic container that has drainage holes and fits inside the pot without holes.

Grab the saucer that matches your pot. A saucer easily fits under the pot, collects drained water, and even prevents messes.

2) Select light-loving plants if you propose to place them fully sun

The best location where you’ll keep the pot depends on the sort of plants you buy. You need to keep plants with tags labelled “full-sun” in outdoor sun-soaked spots and indoor areas by windows.

If you’ve got a spot for the pot in mind, observe the world before purchasing your plants. Confirm it gets a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight. If it doesn’t, choose a plant marked for shade or partial sun.

Full-sun options include most flowering plants, like petunias, geraniums, salvias, true lilies, canna lilies, and lilacs. Other sun-loving plants include people who bear fruits and vegetables, like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. Most herbs, including basil, lavender, and thyme, also require many suns.

3) Opt for shade plants to place in spots that don’t get much sunlight

When you’re at the nursery or home improvement store, check for plant tags marked “shade-tolerant” or “moderate sun.” this suggests the plants need around 3 hours of sunlight or less per day.

Good flowering options include begonias, impatiens, crocuses, periwinkle, lilies of the valley, and a few tulips. Ajuga and coleus are shade tolerant and produce attractive leaves in a range of colours.

While they grow best with the moderate sun, spider and snake plants tolerate low light levels. They’re popular houseplants and need little maintenance.

4) Use potting soil that has the proper drainage requirements for your plants

Topsoil from your yard would dry out and clump, and store-bought garden soil is just too dense to permit proper drainage. If you’ve got a bag of garden soil and don’t want to splurge on potting soil, combine equal parts of garden soil, peat moss, and perlite.

Store-bought potting soil is that the most suitable option for many plants. However, some have specific requirements. If you’re planting orchids, you’ll get to get a growing medium that’s filled with bark and other large chunks of organic matter.

Fruits and vegetables usually prefer nutrient-rich clay or loam soils that retain moisture.

Cacti and other succulents prefer well-drained, sandy soil. Choose a store-bought cactus mix or combine equal parts of sand and potting soil.

5) Amend the soil if necessary to make sure it’s the proper pH

You can test your soil’s pH and amend it to fit your plants’ preferences. Add sphagnum peat or sulphur to form it more acidic and powdered limestone or wood ashes to form it less acidic.

Some plants, like banksias and grevilleas, are phosphorus-sensitive and wish a low-acid, low-phosphorus soil. On the opposite hand, camellias and azaleas thrive in phosphorus-rich acidic soil.

When you are buying potting mixes, match the soil’s pH and phosphorus levels to the recommendations on your plants’ tags.

6) Provide the proper amount of space for your plants

Shrubs, like hibiscus, fuchsia, and bougainvillea, and plants that bear fruits and vegetables typically need much room to grow. Choose containers that are a minimum of 1 to 2 feet or 30 to 61 cm deep and hold a minimum of 5 to 10 gallons or 19 to 38 L of soil.

Plants like rubber trees, tomatoes, peppers, and carrots usually do best on their own. They need large root systems and consume many nutrients.

Plants with smaller root systems, like pansies, dusty millers, daisies, ajugas, moneywort, and succulents, had best with other plants. To permit room for growth, space them about 4 to six inches or 10 to 15 cm apart, or consistent with the instructions on their tags.

You may also check this: Growing Betel Leaf In Pots.

Preparing Planters for Growing Flowers

  • Fill the bottom third of the pot with rocks, broken pots, or even foam peanuts

Unless you are planting a very small tree or shrub with an extensive root system, line the bottom of the container with rocks, shards of broken pots, foam packing peanuts, or even crushed cans and milk jugs. Then fill the container about 1/4 to 1/3 with your choice of material.

Filler material will encourage a drainage system and reduce the amount of soil you will need, which can get very expensive. Smaller objects, like rocks and even pieces of broken pots, are great for drainage-loving succulents and herbs planted in very small pots. Better to use larger objects, like cans and milk jugs, for larger containers.

You need to limit the amount of drainage material you use for plants with extensive root systems, such as small citrus trees, hibiscus, and any other shrubs, tomatoes, and even strawberries. A 1 to 2 inch or 2.5 to 5.1 cm layer of rocks or even broken pot shards will provide drainage without smothering the roots.

  • Add soil to within 2 inches or 5.1 cm of the container’s rim

You need to dump the bag of potting soil into a large container or you can use a trowel to fill a small pot. Keep the soil very loose, and then shake the pot to even out mounds instead of packing it. Leaving about 2 inches or 5.1 cm between the top of the soil and the container’s rim will allow you to water the container without it spilling over the container edge.

The space between the soil and rim will also give you a lot of room to scoop out holes for the plants.

  • Water your plants thoroughly and then knock them out of their plastic cup

You need to soak your plants to prepare them for transplant. Pick one up, and then place your hand on top of the cup so the plant’s stem is between your fingers. After that turn, the cup upside down and very carefully squeezes the sides of the cup to remove the roots and soil ball.

You should not pull the stem to remove the plant from the cup and try to disturb the roots as little as possible.

Better knock the plants out of their cups one by one. Remove a plant from its cup, then transplant it, then move on to the next.

  • Massage the root ball very gently to encourage growth

After removing the cup, you need to lightly massage the roots with your fingertips to loosen them from the soil. You should not unravel the root ball, rub hard, or even work away all of the soil. You just need to loosen the roots a bit to encourage them to spread out in their new home.

  • Dig a hole equal in size to the plant’s root ball

Dig a hole in the centre of the soil bed large just enough to accommodate the root ball. It should be very deep enough so the crown (where the roots meet the stem) will be level with the top layer of the soil. Then place the root ball in the hole, and fill in the soil to level the surface.

If you are just growing one plant in an individual pot, you don’t have to worry about planning the arrangement or even spacing other plants.

  • Place the tallest plants in the middle, if you are using a variety of plants

Start by scooping a hole within the centre for the tallest plant. Place the basis system within the hole therefore the plant’s crown is level with the highest of the soil, then fill within the hole therefore the surface is even.

For example, if you’ve got tall grass, spiky Dracena, or phormium, plant it within the centre of the pot. Provided you’ve got a deep enough pot, azaleas, hibiscus, and elephant ears work well as tall focal points.

  • Add smaller plants closer to the container’s edges

When you have finished with the tallest plant, then work your way toward the sides as you plant flowers, vines, or other smaller specimens. Create a middle layer of flowering or brightly coloured plants, and place vines that will spill over the edges of the pot about 2 inches (5.1 cm) from the sides.

Great filler plants include coleus, ajugas, and hostas. Petunias, salvias, pansies, and geraniums are very popular choices that add pops of colour.

Good spillers, or plants with foliage that trails over the pot’s edges, include moneywort, clematis, ivy, and sedum.

Space the plants about 4 to 6 inches or 10 to 15 cm aside from one another, or consistent with the instructions on their tags. Don’t worry if the container looks a touch sparse. Your plants need room to grow, and they’ll fill in empty spaces within a couple of weeks.

  • Soak the soil once you finish planting

Thoroughly soaking the soil will help prevent transplant shock of the plant. Water the container until the pot starts to empty and therefore the top of the soil is saturated. Counting on the container’s size, it could take several minutes to water it completely. Water will drain from the rock bottom of the container, so make certain to put the pot on a saucer.

Stop watering once you see water leaking from the drainage holes at rock bottom.

Room temperature water is right, especially for tropical plants, like elephant ears, bougainvillea, and orchids. If water from your hose or faucet feels ice cold, fill a pitcher or watering pot and permit it to consider temperature.

Tap water is typically fine, as long as you do not use water softeners. Water treated with softeners can cause salt build-up. Water is best for carnivorous plants, like pitcher plants and Venus flytraps. They like low-nutrient soil and do not just like the minerals in the water.

Caring Tips for Potted Plants

In case if you miss this: Growing Organic Leafy Vegetables.

Caring Tips for Potted Plants
Caring Tips for Potted Plants (Image source: pixabay)
  • Keep a saucer under the pot to catch drained water

A saucer will easily prevent dirty water from pooling on your floor, windowsill, or even desk. Empty the saucer about an hour after watering to stop plant disease.

If the container is just too heavy to lift and you can’t remove the saucer, use a bulb baster to suck up the water.

  • Water the pot when the soil is dry or consistent with the tag’s instructions

The right amount of water depends on your plants, the dimensions of your container, and whether you retain the pot indoors or outdoors. As a general rule, stick your finger into the soil and water only it’s dry.

If the soil is moist and your finger can easily penetrate it, don’t water the pot. If the soil feels very dry and your finger can’t easily penetrate it, then your plant needs water.

For most plants, watering thoroughly and letting the soil dry completely is best than keeping the soil damp.

Most flowering plants, fruits, vegetables, and herbs got to be watered daily. Cacti and other succulents should only be watered every 2 to 4 days at the most.

When unsure, check your plants’ tags and water them as directed.

  • Add slow-release fertilizer beads monthly, or because the tag recommends

Nutrients leech from the soil whenever you water, so you’ll get to fertilize your potted plant regularly. All-purpose fertilizer beads that release nutrients over time are good for many plants, but you ought to check plant tags for specific instructions.

Use about 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer beads for 1 gallon or 3.8 L of soil. Spread the granules over the soil, and use your fingers or a little trowel to figure it about 2 inches or 5.1 cm deep.

In general, flowering plants, fruits, and even vegetables need more nutrients to survive than herbs and succulents. During mid-season, or once they produce ripe fruit, fertilize plants like tomatoes and peppers every 1 to 2 weeks. Keep an eye fixed out for yellow leaves, which could indicate you’re over-fertilizing.

You don’t need to be fussy about fertilizing herbs, like basil, cilantro, lavender, and rosemary. They’re susceptible to over-fertilization, so 1 application every 3 to 4 months is best.

Cacti and other succulents only got to be fertilized once or twice a year.

  • Prune your plants whenever you see dead leaves on them

Use clean shear to chop dead flowers and leaves. Trim them at a 45-degree angle slightly below the brown or dead area. Clip new growth at a 45-degree angle about 1⁄2 inch or 1.3 cm above the nodule to stay a rapidly growing plant in restraint.

The nodule seems like a little bump or bud where new growth emerges.

If you’re clipping herbs or pruning a rapid grower, avoid removing quite 30% of the plant at a time. Clipping an excessive amount can shock and kill the plant.

Pruning encourages new growth and can cause fuller, more robust plants.

  • Cut off any part of the plant that has rot or fungus

In addition to regular pruning, you’ll get to remove diseased leaves as soon as you notice them. Signs of the disease include black or brown spots, yellowing, white patches, and foul odor. If the matter persists, purchase an antifungal spray labelled for plants.

Look for a fungicide formulated for your specific plant at a gardening centre. Read its instructions, and apply them as directed.

Common plant diseases include black or white fungal and bacterial blights, fungal rusts (which are characterized by a rust-coloured coating), and cankers, or areas of dead, oozing tissue on wood stems.

  • Apply insecticide, if the plant becomes infested with pests

If you would like to affect pests, search for a plant insecticide at a garden centre. If you retain your plant indoors, confirm the merchandise is labelled for houseplants. Read your product’s instructions and use them as directed.

Most of the plant insecticides are recommended for specific plants, which are listed on the label. Check labels for your plants or ask an employee at the garden centre for help.

Common pests include aphids, ants, gnats, spider mites, and whiteflies.

While aphids, ants, and flies are visible, mites are tough to identify. Search for patches of fine webbing with tiny, barely visible specks. Signs of mite infestation include very tiny light green spots on leaves and even stems, yellow discoloration, and curled or dead leaves.


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